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'An old stand-by still delivers'
The Herald's Go! Magazine

By Martin Meursautt

I tend to think of Rosine's as an old stand-by. It usually doesn't jump to mind when I'm thinking of making a dinner reservation, but it's a place I might patronize if I happen to be in downtown Monterey.

After each meal at Rosine's, I generally start to wonder why I don't come here more often.

The food is good (sometimes very good); the atmosphere is pleasant service tends to be excellent; the price is right; and portions are generous. As a measure of the last item, Annette Culcasi-Ivers and her brother and co-owner Jim Culcasi tell me the restaurant goes through about 800 Styrofoam to-go boxes a week.

Rosine's, In the heart of downtown Monterey on Alvarado Street, has become a veritable local's institution, with its bright, airy atmosphere, huge portions, good value and excellent service.

My first visit here recently was for breakfast. Burdened with New Year's resolutions, 1 ordered a yolkless-Italian omelette (S8.50). As it turned out, this selection provided no help to my weight-loss aspirations. What I got was a monster rolled omelette - about the size of a burrito grande - sluffed with Jack cheese and homemade Italian sauce, topped with more sauce and two kinds of cheese, and served with Italian sausage, sourdough toast and country fries.

Everything was savory and fresh tasting. The restaurant had the feel of a garden dining patio, with light streaming in through the windows, floral paintings on the wall and huge planters of greenery spread out on the green carpet. The ceiling is two-stories high, tables are arranged on split levels, and the impact is summery and festive. Even at that hour - 10 a.m. on a Monday - the dining room was alive with the buzz of people enjoying themselves, including a fair number of families.

A group of us came back for a mid-week dinner at about 6:30 p.m. Again, the large dining room was essentially full.

Though Rosine's boasts a prominent location on Alvarado Street and gets a significant number of value-seeking tourists, the restaurant also has a strong local following, many of whom have been regulars since the place opened in 1986, when it was founded by Rosine Culcasi and her husband Jim Culcasi Sr.

Some of the signature items are apparent as soon as you walk in the door. A large display case to the left of the entryway exhibits the desserts - over-sized cakes, gooey brownies and gargantuan pies. Save room for these rich sweets, because they constitute a definite high spot.

Starters include soup of the day or minestrone ($2.95/$3.25), quesadilla ($6.50), calamari strips and chips ($7.95}, crab cakes ($8.95), shrimp cocktail ($7.50), potato skins ($5.95), thick-cut onion rings ($5.25), and clam chowder (Fridays only, $2.95/$3.75).

Nine huge salads ($7.25-$9.95) are all strong on volume, quality ingredients and presentation. For example, my wife had the Cobb salad ($8.95), an attractive mountain of fresh greens topped with separate piles of chopped tomato, chopped egg, bacon chunks, avocado, turkey, black olives and blue cheese.

A dozen "specialty" sandwiches {$7.95-$8.95} are on the menu for both lunch and dinner, each served with French fries, homemade potato salad, green salad or avery good homemade cole slaw. I tried the French dip, with plenty of thinly sliced roast beef and melted Swiss cheese on an onion roll.

In addition, there are a range of "old favorite" sandwiches like fresh turkey (cooked fresh daily, $6.75) and ham and cheese ($6.50). Another dozen or so come from the broiler, ranging from veggie burger ($6.95) to various beef patty creations (from $7.25) to a New York Steak sandwich ($10.50).

All the pastas -- There are 10, plus nightly specials - come with garlic bread and your choice of either soup or salad. Choices range from pasta marinara ($9.25) to pasta with Italian sausages ($10.75) and chicken fettuccine tossed with Alfredo sauce ($10.95).

More elaborate entrees - all served with soup, salad, veggies, bread and butter - include breaded calamari ($13.95), chicken breast with white wine mushroom and artichoke cream sauce ($13.95), two charbroiled pork chops ($14.95), Sicilian-breaded filet mignon tails ($14.95), salmon with spinach and fresh Hollandaise sauce ($15.95), prime rib (Friday and Saturday nights, $16.95), barbecued baby back ribs ($14.95/$16.95), teriyaki steak ($16.95), New York steak ($17.95), and various nightly specials.

Beverages include a limited wine list ($4.50-$7 per glass; $l7-$30 per bottle) plus various non-alcoholic drinks ranging from lemonade ($1.50) to milk shakes ($4.50).

Desserts, made fresh daily, are a definite strong suit. On any given day, you'll likely find 14 different cakes and pies from which to choose, at $4.75-$4.95 a slice. Select from cakes like carrot, Black Forest, chocolate truffle, chocolate chip cheese, blueberries and cream - or pies like key lime, rhubarb, French apricol, Snickers or Reese's peanut butter.

The kids' menu - topped with the slogan "Kids Rule!" - is at once a coloring book, crossword puzzle and game sheet. Choices range from corn dog and fries ($3.25) to pasta with meatball and sausage ($4.75).

Martin Meursautt, a pen name, is a local dining enthusiast. He invites your comments and suggestions, in care of Table Talk, Go!, The Herald, P. 0. Box 271, Monterey 93942. GO!

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